![]() Watch replay, slow the playback and free cam from out side the car, observing the wheels. the 'travel time' 0 - 100% on a good load cell pedal set is significantly longer than a trigger finger on a controller! Accustom to taking advantage of HI-TECH, Bespoke, RACING ABS? or you have a flat stable platform for majority of your braking? Cant do both 100% at same time!~ ![]() Brake disc temps? hot? cold?Īpplication? easing in to full and out again? or snatching? Stomp it! O course you are asking more of the traction than what is available. Tire temps, up to optimal? track temp? Vents, aero - along with rid height, pitch. Means - Efficient front brake use, and quick turn thru the tight stuff (aka - a 911)| (any bike, road, MX - but dirt variants have a travel that is visible with drastic geometry changes under hard braking vs full Braaaaap) Pro grade front forks with full suspension (see: Down-hill mountain bike - Long, lush) the 'shocks' on the front forks compress, absorbing and maintaining the energy, also changing the the geometry - and so shorting the wheel base. you are locking the front and taking a short flight. This is like the difference on a mountain bike, grabbing hard fist-full front brakes. This range total of 20 favouring the front or the back (the bias) is the only part you are affecting.įronts locking, not matter what you try, not absolute, but most likely front suspension simply too hard. Say a default 50/50 Bias, with an allowed adjustable range of 10 in either 'direction' - front or back. there is a limit, and it is range of availible ratio/balance or BIAS you are adjusting. "full to the rear" does not mean all braking to rears only. It is much more complex with many many factors. ![]() But the long pot below makes is look like I am SUPER Busy, on server and writing 元3t Codez. Edit: I realise this is an old post - an OP most like now has this full waxed.
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